BRIDGING THE GAP
The enduring Dainty Restaurant in Iloilo City
Old-timers in Iloilo City and Province are all familiar with the Dainty Restaurant. Individuals and families that have been dining in the well-known restaurant witnessed its history from its location in J.M. Basa Street to its present site in Iznart Street. In fact, Dainty Restaurant is reputed to be the oldest existing restaurant in the city.
Dainty Restaurant was established in 1929 in Ledesma Street by three entrepreneurs who had trained in Wing Kee Restaurant situated near Plaza Libertad, famous in the early 1900s for Cantonese foods. They were Chung Sai, Kong Kee, and Tam Lee Hee, all of whom acted also as chefs. Later, the three were joined by Ah Yeng and a certain Mr. Sia who both served the restaurant as managers or overseers.
Dainty Restaurant initially specialized in American dishes and, by 1940, it was already a favorite eating place. By then, it had moved to J.M. Basa Street at a site not very far from Plazoleta Gay. When the Second World War broke out, the restaurant had to stop its operation. Luckily, despite the heavy American bombardment and consequent conflagrations that destroyed a sizeable section of Iloilo City, the building that housed the restaurant survived unscathed.
The years after the war saw the growing popularity of Dainty Restaurant. It became a favorite eating destination and watering hole of Iloilo's populace, Including prominent ones, such as Vice President Fernando Lopez.
In 1996, Chung Sai's partners sold the Dainty Restaurant to him and, soon after, they established the Kong Kee Restaurant in the middle stretch of J.M. Basa Street. Chung needed somebody to assist him, now that his partners parted ways with him. His daughter, Maria Ezperanza, an accounting student at that time, came in and ably to assisted his father. Chung and his family, through hard work, efficiently managed the business and it continued to be a popular eating place in the city. It offered breakfast, lunch and dinner. It also had the function room in the second floor used for special occasions. Chung was the chef, his wife was "kitchen manager" and Ezperanza, fondly called as Pancing, served as some kind of manager, book-keeper and public relations officer. The Chungs took care of the marketing of supplies and ingredients needed in the restaurant. Interestingly, they also baked their own bread inside the restaurant using the traditional oven that used firewood. Eventually, the Chungs were forced to shift to modern oven for practical purposes because wood was becoming expensive.
Dainty Restaurant had round table made of wood when it was still operating in J. M Basa Street. In its early existence, it had menus in two languages -- Spanish and Chinese. The restaurant became famous for its pancit guisado and bihon guisado, as well as its siopao and pande leche. An introduction to its menu in the past reads: "We serve to satisfy -- since 1929."
In 1989, Chung Sai died but not without leaving someone who can cook the same popular delicious foods that he did. He chose Robert Chan , the husband of Pancing, whom he trained personally. From 1989 to 1995, the couple struggled to continue the restaurant business in J.M. Basa Street . Through hard work, patience and perseverance, which according to Pancing, are the lasting legacies of her father to her, they were able to succeed.
In 1995, the concrete gutter of the old building that housed the Dainty Restaurant collapsed and the restaurant was not issued a business permit by the city government because of the danger. Fortunately, in the same year, Dainty Restaurant found a new home at the James Building in Iznart Street. The James Building that once housed a restaurant of the same name was own by Pancing's brother, James. However, James and his family migrated abroad and so, Pancing and her husband used the place to re-establish the Dainty Restaurant.
Nowadays, the Dainty Restaurant in Iznart Street is managed by Pancing . When her husband Robert passed away, their son Robert Jr., became the chef. Because he was adequately trained by his father , the quality and taste of the restaurant's specialty have been maintained. There are changes though in the new Dainty Restaurant. The menu is now in English since few people nowadays know Spanish and their Chinese customers can now understand English. The tables are no longer but rectangular once left in the restaurant by Pancing's brother. They also do not bake their own bread anymore in the restaurant like they did back in J.M. Basa Street, but do their baking in their house.
As it was in the past, Dainty Restaurant today is still crowded with people eager to taste its various noodle specialties, as well as its famous sipao and pan de leche. Of course, there are other menus that one can order for take out or dine in at the restaurant itself. But the name Dainty Restaurant has always been synonymous with pancit guisado and bihon guisado, as well as siopao and pan de leche. These are the ones that have made the restaurant endure the test of time.