Sipalay, a city like no other
Nothing in Sipalay City tells you that it’s a city by the usual hustle-bustle, concrete jungle standards. This hidden gem in Negros Occidental’s deep south even looks desolate, as it is nestled in front of Sulu Sea’s vast nothingness. There are no multi-lane highways, no malls or skyscrapers, and no insane traffic jams. Driving to Sipalay from Bacolod is breezy with a slight chance of cow traffic. The air is clean and the surrounding countryside spells simple life. Certainly no other city in the Philippines can offer this much breathing space.
The sights on the way to Sipalay are invigorating, despite portions of dizzying zigzag portions nearing the city. The stretches of sugarcane fields on one side and the ocean in the other – are a blue-green treat that’s easy on the eyes and reminiscent perhaps of 19th century rustic Hawaii. The surf that constantly pounded the coves, islets and jagged rocks – are scenes that juxtaposed Ireland if not for the coconut trees that constantly reminded us we’re in still in hopelessly-tropical Philippines.
I have been to Sipalay a decade ago when it was still a municipality and nothing much has changed now that it is a city. Except for some newer residences and businesses, the city remains an intimate community much like it was when this old mining capital was still a “barrio” of the much progressive municipality of Cauayan, Negros Occidental.
What I couldn’t forget about Sipalay is its tree-lined plaza which provides a front seat to the beach that lay ahead and the sun that kisses it in late afternoon. I was glad everything was still there when I came back. Despite cityhood, Sipalay should keep its basics.
Today, Sipalay stands alone, finally cutting off its umbilical cord from its mother municipality as it proved to be self-sufficient. With gold and nickel underneath its bosom and the sweet takings from the flourishing sugar industry, Sipalay was bound to evolve. Its seas are also one of the country’s richest and most picturesque. Both land and marine resources fueled Sipalay’s journey to cityhood.
Recently Sipalay has opened its doors to show off its jewels that used to be hidden from the outside world – natural sanctuaries such as waterfalls, beaches, islands and caves. These have driven tourism as Sipalay surely offers more to those seeking adventure in places less-traveled or those just looking for a place to kill time.
Sipalay is home to Sugar Beach whose name is self-explanatory when alluding to its fine white sands. From the city, Sugar beach is a good quarter of an hour’s boat ride. It is best to discover Sipalay’s beaches by island hopping and Sugar Beach is not to be missed. Aside from its postcard perfect views and its captivating white sand , Sugar Beach is also swimmer-friendly – a rarity in most of the country’s rugged islands.
Not very far from Sugar Beach is Tinagong Dagat which provided a safe haven for ships to take refuge in during fierce weather. Tinagong Dagat also shelters a string of islets and coves ready to be explored. Campomanes Bay with its long stretch of white sand is also perfect for diving, snorkeling and water sports. Underwater marine life abound as its coves are mangrove jungles. Coral reefs and marine life bursting in colors await divers. In Sipalay’s beaches, there’s a little something for everyone.
Inland, the Matlag Cave is a conquest for those seeking mild adventure. Stalactites and stalagmites have attracted neophyte spelunkers to explore Matlag Cave in between island hops.
Sipalay’s mining sites used to be the scene of intense conflict between mining stakeholders and pro environment groups in the 80’s and 90’s. While the city largely earned from resources such as gold and nickel, pro environment groups decry the destruction of natural resources in the area and the threats posed by mining on the residents.
Today the Maricalum mine site is a tourist destination in itself following the cessation of mining activities there. The abandoned tailings pond provides an out of this world experience to tourists. Its light brown and barren landscape is a perfect setting for a low budget Martian movie or a faux Colorado rocky mountain. During rainy season the mining pit is filled with water and mimics a lake. The mine site should be part of any Sipalay day tour, even just for photo-ops sake.
Seafood in Sipalay is also abundant, hence affordable. Tuna from the Sulu sea is sold in the local market and small stalls by the beach can cook them for a fee. And in keeping with the down-to-earth Sipalay experience, fresh seafood is best served, grilled.
Small hotels are available in the city’s center while simple to posh private resorts dot the city’s southwest coastline.
Sipalay City in southern Negros island is 2 to 3 hours away from Silay Bacolod Airport in Negros Occidental Province. It takes about the same travel time from Dumaguete City airport in Negros Oriental to Sipalay City. Sipalay being neither here nor there is a conquest. Compared to other prime resorts in the country with well-developed transport infrastructure, it takes a little more effort and time to get there. But as they say – patience is a virtue and Sipalay can make it all worthwhile.*
